Is topical estrogen in skincare making a comeback?
It just may be, according to Skincare Confidential Podcast Host Patti Farris, MD, and Ellen Gendler, MD, a Dermatologist in New York, NY. The two recently chatted about the resurgence of topical estrogen in skincare in an episode of the podcast, which is an extension of the Science of Skin Summit meeting, founded by Dr. Farris and Ted Lain, MD, MBA.
“There are very solid studies to show what a lack of estrogen does to skin,” Dr. Gendler says. As the body’s natural estrogen supply dwindles, skin grows thinner, drier, and less elastic. Skin also heals more slowly, and sebum production is markedly diminished.
After seeing how topical estrogen improved the skin quality of an elderly patient, Dr. Gendler tried using an estrogen cream around her eyes. This N=1 experiment piqued her curiosity, and she started to review the available literature. “Many studies, virtually all of them, have shown some degree of improvement in all the [skin aging] parameters that we are looking at [including elasticity and minimizing fine lines],” she says. Estrogen is technically a drug, but it falls into the cosmeceutical arena when studied in skincare, as many of these results are subjective, Dr. Gendler adds.
Melasma exacerbation has been reported with topical estrogen, but evidence is limited. Concerns about systemic absorption of topical estrogens are prevalent, but the studies are reassuring. “There have been countless studies and reports saying that [estrogen] doesn’t get absorbed when used in the doses we are talking about,” she says.
What doses are those?
Topical creams typically contain the same doses as vaginal estrogen creams, i.e., 0.01% estradiol in the U.S. or 0.3% Estriol in Europe. Estriol, a weaker estrogen, is often used by compounding pharmacists for skin creams. Both forms have similar benefits for skin, and neither causes any systemic effects, Dr. Gendler says.
The bottom line about topical estrogen in skincare? “There seems to be a benefit to using topical estrogen on limited areas of the skin,” she says. It can and does improve skin thickness and elasticity. Online health products are proliferating, but caution is necessary. Make sure to thoroughly vet sources for topical treatments before recommending them to patients.
Download the full episode here: https://open.spotify.com/episode/0PkOCwkKMiWJ6cS8qmN3Lj
